Whats easier
Started by David McNamara, May 06 2010 08:23 PM
16 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 May 2010 - 08:23 PM
Ok so whats easier. Unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the entire engine up a little to get the oil pan off, or unbolting the engine and supporting it up top and lowering the lower front support?
Just wondering, I need this to only take 1 day to do and cannot waste too much time on it.
THANKS
Just wondering, I need this to only take 1 day to do and cannot waste too much time on it.
THANKS
#5
Posted 07 May 2010 - 05:18 PM
all i know is if you have a JZ motor with JZX81 mounts, you can swap the lower pan out with the engine in the car. i did mine on the floor in 30 min. if you're taking off both the lower pan and the aluminum part that holds the pickup, then um.. have fun.

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#7
Posted 07 May 2010 - 06:32 PM
I removed/reinstalled the upper oil pan with the motor last year. It sucked, but was still easier/faster than taking the motor out.
Support the motor from the top, drop the crossmember and have fun. Use plenty of jackstands not only on the car but to help support the motor/trans, this isn't exactly the safest thing in the world.
Support the motor from the top, drop the crossmember and have fun. Use plenty of jackstands not only on the car but to help support the motor/trans, this isn't exactly the safest thing in the world.
#8
Posted 08 May 2010 - 10:43 AM
QUOTE (rayray @ May 8 2010, 01:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
all i know is if you have a JZ motor with JZX81 mounts, you can swap the lower pan out with the engine in the car.
same with x90 mounts, i can drop the lower pan without jacking the front up.
Kyle, on 29 November 2011 - 09:49 AM, said:
Thats cool you feel like you can make a 7m proper. Just do it somewhere else. Around here we call that shit gay.
#10
Posted 11 May 2010 - 08:59 AM
You're doing it wrong. Prybar pulling the motor forward, held in tension by a ratchet strap you Afghan fuck. Alternatively, you could put a block of wood between the engine and firewall to prevent it from pulling back again shitbreath.
I know you're doing the lower pan because if you were doing the upper pan the engine wouldn't have fit around the crossmember.
Use black RTV to seal it up too. The red can disolve and glog up your pickup and turbo feed bolts.
I know you're doing the lower pan because if you were doing the upper pan the engine wouldn't have fit around the crossmember.
Use black RTV to seal it up too. The red can disolve and glog up your pickup and turbo feed bolts.

#11
Posted 12 May 2010 - 08:17 AM
QUOTE (mranlet @ May 11 2010, 12:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You're doing it wrong. Prybar pulling the motor forward, held in tension by a ratchet strap you Afghan fuck. Alternatively, you could put a block of wood between the engine and firewall to prevent it from pulling back again shitbreath.
I know you're doing the lower pan because if you were doing the upper pan the engine wouldn't have fit around the crossmember.
Use black RTV to seal it up too. The red can disolve and glog up your pickup and turbo feed bolts.
I know you're doing the lower pan because if you were doing the upper pan the engine wouldn't have fit around the crossmember.
Use black RTV to seal it up too. The red can disolve and glog up your pickup and turbo feed bolts.
i have no earthly idea what you are talking about...pushing the engine forward with wood...?
I hope this is an attempt to be funny and you are not serious, because ( a ) its not funny, and ( b ) there is no way in HELL that this would work...
#14
Posted 14 May 2010 - 12:00 AM
dont you have a 5m? support the engine with a hoist. unbolt the motor mounts, drop crossmember( dont need to remove it just lower it), unbolt tension rods and sway bar ends, unbolt lca, move the swaybar out of the way.. take off pan... i just did it... took me about 7 hrs total...
#15
Posted 14 May 2010 - 07:33 AM
I find it easier to just unbolt the motor and tranny mounts and lift it with a hoist to where the tranny is rubbing against the tunnel. No damage done.

1UZ-FE V8 5 speed, Torsen rear diff, solid mounts everywhere, Coilover'd, stainless steel exhaust, and a shit load of FUCK YOU!
#16
Posted 25 May 2010 - 08:43 AM
well i finally got everything sorted out. what I found to be the easiest was just as stated above...
Unbolt engine
lower front sub frame
Lift engine up with hoist
Move sway bar out of the way
One thing I didnt know and some might not is that the front sump on the engine is EXTREMELY low sitting. this is why the engine has to be so high in the air and the lower sub frame lowered.
Either way, thanks guys for everything. Will post pics when I get the thing cleaned up.
Unbolt engine
lower front sub frame
Lift engine up with hoist
Move sway bar out of the way
One thing I didnt know and some might not is that the front sump on the engine is EXTREMELY low sitting. this is why the engine has to be so high in the air and the lower sub frame lowered.
Either way, thanks guys for everything. Will post pics when I get the thing cleaned up.
#17 Guest_zrookie_*
Posted 25 May 2010 - 10:35 PM
you can do both;
lift your car as high as possible use jack stands. (all four corners)check for safety.
loosen up the motor mounts
lift the motor and keep it up by support (cherry picker) / don't put too much stress in the tranny mount by lifting it too high.
loosen up the cross-member bolts (lower it using a nice jack) / don't let it hang on the bolts or suspension components, use the jack.
that should give you enough clearance to do the oil pan.
lift your car as high as possible use jack stands. (all four corners)check for safety.
loosen up the motor mounts
lift the motor and keep it up by support (cherry picker) / don't put too much stress in the tranny mount by lifting it too high.
loosen up the cross-member bolts (lower it using a nice jack) / don't let it hang on the bolts or suspension components, use the jack.
that should give you enough clearance to do the oil pan.
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