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Daft's 90 mx83 LS1 Build


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#1 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 01:22 AM

Hi, new to the forum. I already started this build. The car is near completion. I will post up some more things tomorrow sometime. But for now here you go.




I will most likely be running 17x9 all around. the front has 18x10 -4 right now with max camber. I put this on to roll the car around shop.

#2 lofapoo

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 02:23 AM

'bout time someone did it! Good shit
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#3 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 03:01 AM

QUOTE (lofapoo @ Feb 9 2010, 11:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
'bout time someone did it! Good shit



thanks. I still have a good amount to learn on what suspension components are good on these chassis. I currently put s13 knucles/sprindles on the front. The ball joints were super close to the same on taper. This allowed me to run a s13 coilover setup.

#4 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 03:07 AM

Here are a couple more pictures I have taken of the setup.



I need to build a oil pan skid plate for sure!!



S13 front coilovers, 10k front springs.. will put 12k if they don't feel ok. I figured the ls1 weight less so 10k would be enough. Z32 front brakes, 5 lug ...



SPL outer s13 tie rod ends. This was used on a z32/s14 tie rod. The thread is the same as the x8 smile.gif



18x10-4 andrew racing veilside up front for now.





#5 cianide

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 06:40 AM

Dude... wait... whatt???


You put a 240sx front spindle on the existing cressida ball joint?? SRS? Fuck welding shit, I'm going to do that if that is ALL you had to do?
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#6 Mitch

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 07:01 AM

Cool car! Not a fan of american muscle thats not from the late 60's but I still like yours. Will be interseting to see how it handles with all the Fail-chassis suspension.

^Ciande- you can run an S13 FLCA and it will bolt in no prob, same bolt diameter and the FLCA is a few cm's longer. Only problem the stock inner/outer tie-rods aren't long enough.
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#7 Joe

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 07:25 AM

questions:

did you have to modify the crossmember?

what about shifter placement?

transmission tunnel modifications?

any idea on the clutch setup yet?

basically, whats different than this vs. an S chassis?
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I own a 240sx.

#8 cianide

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:20 AM

QUOTE (Mitch @ Feb 9 2010, 04:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Cool car! Not a fan of american muscle thats not from the late 60's but I still like yours. Will be interseting to see how it handles with all the Fail-chassis suspension.

^Ciande- you can run an S13 FLCA and it will bolt in no prob, same bolt diameter and the FLCA is a few cm's longer. Only problem the stock inner/outer tie-rods aren't long enough.



Ahhhh, so this dude used z32/s14 inners and s13 spl outers?
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#9 toji004

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:28 AM

man, this shits gonna spank !!!
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#10 JZXpwns

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 11:39 AM

interesting...

how different would it be to run s14 stuff?

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#11 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 02:05 PM

fail suspension .. I do know the gay strut type that comes with x8 is old school like my 1970 datsuns. Honestly I didn't want to weld the threaded deal on the strut and make a set of coilovers. I understand this forum is filled with cressida lovers/240sx haters. I no longer drive a s chassis so whatever. If the front feels like garbage then I will go back with cressida stuff. The tie rods are stock. What I was saying is the cressida tie rod inners have same thread as s14/z32. This is how my spl tie rod ends threaded on.

The clutch hydraulics was pretty simple. I bolted a 2002 is300 clutch pedal in with the 5/8 bore master. This will probably need to be upgraded to a 3/4 unit. I will either make a wilwood unit work or see if there is enough material to bore the is300 unit and make a 3/4 bore unit. I ran a 10x1.0 to -4 braided hose into the t56, and a external bleeder line with speed bleeder on it. I used the x8 brake pedal with the is300 pad welded onto it.

Shifter location is dead center in console. The transmission tunnel didn't really need to massaged. The part that hits the most is the up and down. The transmission tunnel is to shallow. I did use some force on that. As far as s chassis to x8 chassis I think the s13 has better fitment in trans tunnel. The engine bay looks way better with a x8 IMO.

Crossmember did need to be modified. I had to notch it pretty far back. s chassis owners have oiling issues under hard acceleration and drifting. This is why I did not modify the gto front sump pan. I would rather leave it stock and mod engine crossmember. I will be making a tube front crossmember anyways in future.

#12 Guy Smiley

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 03:33 PM

Really nice work and good job with experimenting. I am still pretty new to these chassis' as well and wish I had the resources to try things like this. So I guess I'm saying thanks?

#13 Mitch

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:05 PM

QUOTE (daft innovations @ Feb 10 2010, 01:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
fail suspension .. I do know the gay strut type that comes with x8 is old school like my 1970 datsuns. Honestly I didn't want to weld the threaded deal on the strut and make a set of coilovers. I understand this forum is filled with cressida lovers/240sx haters. I no longer drive a s chassis so whatever. If the front feels like garbage then I will go back with cressida stuff. The tie rods are stock. What I was saying is the cressida tie rod inners have same thread as s14/z32. This is how my spl tie rod ends threaded on.


What I was getting at is S-chassis suspension isn't valved correctly for our heavy chassis not to mention heavy engines in the front. The problem I really have with s-chassis spindles is getting rid of bumpsteer due to low ride height. With out crazy modification of the tie rod location on the spindle or exspensive aftermarket spindles your FLCA is still way too high when the car is correctly lowered. On Toyota style front suspension all you need is a giant block of aluminium (RCA) and it's fixed. Not to mention G's shit is valved for our chassis weight unlike stock s-chassis stuff.

Either way can't wait to see your car out there! wink.gif
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#14 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:23 PM

QUOTE (Mitch @ Feb 10 2010, 12:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What I was getting at is S-chassis suspension isn't valved correctly for our heavy chassis not to mention heavy engines in the front. The problem I really have with s-chassis spindles is getting rid of bumpsteer due to low ride height. With out crazy modification of the tie rod location on the spindle or exspensive aftermarket spindles your FLCA is still way too high when the car is correctly lowered. On Toyota style front suspension all you need is a giant block of aluminium (RCA) and it's fixed. Not to mention G's shit is valved for our chassis weight unlike stock s-chassis stuff.

Either way can't wait to see your car out there! wink.gif



I see what your saying. All those darn coilover kits are probably not valved correctly. I know about the rca. I sell nrca for datsun's on my website. I would have done all that but I had all the s chassis crap with brakes laying around. I have the pbm super angle kit on them also. Not sure how this work work though. To correct some of the suspension geometry can you just redrill the pickup for the lca higher on the crossmember ? Obviously a nice shock valved correctly with correct spring rate would be a lot better. I did go with 10 in front.. the ls1 seems to be a assload lighter then the 7m and automatic.. Anyways I will have the cressida parts laying around. I only have the fuel system, wiring, and exhaust left.


I will be driving this car on the weekend I hope.

#15 Mitch

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:37 PM

QUOTE (daft innovations @ Feb 10 2010, 02:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
To correct some of the suspension geometry can you just redrill the pickup for the lca higher on the crossmember ?


In theory yes, but sadly that creates another issue. The higher up you move the FLCA bolt to the crossmember, the less pivot angle you can make without bottoming out on the crossmember itself. The stock FLCA on a corolla are the same. My Trust colivers can go lower then my arms allow without hitting the frame rail where the FLCA fits in the crossmember. Now you can weld on heim joints to the end to eleviate this, like on the battle version control arm kits. It just seems like way too much work to make S-chassis parts to fit and fix basic geomtry.

you could just run these


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#16 rayray

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 05:54 PM

i'm lovin it. clean swap

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#17 CelicaDRIFTER

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 07:58 PM

i wanna see video of this car rippin' it up!
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#18 lonelywanderer

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 09:15 PM

loving the swap....

#19 5YearSlump

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:47 PM

Nice!!!! I'm a big F-Body fan and former owner of a cam only 02 z28 that went 11.80's. If the LS1 wasn't so over priced at the time I would have went the LS1/T56 way, but I got a better deal on my 2jz. I am looking for a second cressida for a heads cam LS1 swap that I can build for my daughter for her 16 birthdayn which is a ways away. Lol
I would gladly pay you on Tuesday for a 2jz swap today..

#20 daft innovations

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 11:25 PM

QUOTE (5YearSlump @ Feb 10 2010, 06:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nice!!!! I'm a big F-Body fan and former owner of a cam only 02 z28 that went 11.80's. If the LS1 wasn't so over priced at the time I would have went the LS1/T56 way, but I got a better deal on my 2jz. I am looking for a second cressida for a heads cam LS1 swap that I can build for my daughter for her 16 birthdayn which is a ways away. Lol



Nice!! I have never owned a fbody. Just small imports. I love the torque from the v8 smile.gif. I can imagine I will be doing the same thing for my kids when I have some. Cool man I will keep you all updated on this build. Hope to get a video soon.





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