Stalling when coming to a stop
Started by Zale, Jun 06 2009 10:07 AM
25 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 June 2009 - 10:07 AM
Hey guys, Ive got another little problem with my car. Whenever I drive the car for 20+ mins, and the car heats up (doesnt do it at night), Ill be coming to a stop and the rpms will dip and sometimes the car stalls out. I usually I am in second and put it into neutral just before I come to a complete stop and the rpms will drop to below 500 and sometimes the engine will catch it self and rev back up and then fall to idle but Id say close to 50-60% of the time it stalls. Ive read that it could be because of and upgraded clutch? I have a twin plate ORC so Im not sure if that would do it. Any solution if it is my clutch doing it? Anybody had this trouble before or heard of something like it? Jst for reference, the motor is a 1JZ with a GT3037S turbo kit.... HELP!
#4
Posted 06 June 2009 - 09:50 PM
i don't see how a clutch would cause stalling. also you're not mafs, so vac leaks wouldn't do this either. it's probably the idle air control valve, they are notoriously finicky on 1jzs. just adjust the throttle plate and this should stop.
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#5
Posted 07 June 2009 - 12:29 AM
QUOTE (brian @ Jun 7 2009, 05:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i don't see how a clutch would cause stalling. also you're not mafs, so vac leaks wouldn't do this either. it's probably the idle air control valve, they are notoriously finicky on 1jzs. just adjust the throttle plate and this should stop.
Anybody know if there is an option under the Apexi Standalone to adjust fix this? Would a tune cure the problem or am I going to have to clean/replace the IAC?
Edit: I just looked up how much a new IAC is... let's hope I dont need to replace it. $708
#6
Posted 07 June 2009 - 08:17 AM
my car has been acting up too. when i coast downhill in gear while the engine is cold, it will do exactly the same thing and not want to hold idle when i come to a stop at the bottom of the hill. otherwise performs perfectly fine if i get on the gas. returns back to normal once i start up the car. otherwise never had issue with it when warm.

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#9
Posted 07 June 2009 - 06:01 PM
theres a way to fix it in the tune. you have to... iirc advance ....the timing where you want idle to be...600-800 rpm in the map. it will prevent this. my 240 is map sensor with NO IACV and it likes to stall at idle pulling up to stop lights or signs. i was meaning to do it to it...but im pulling the motor this week and ive got a spare iacv. just gonna hook it back up.
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#10
Posted 30 June 2009 - 12:07 AM
Fucking hell my car was pulling this bullshit randomly the other night but I know the water temp sensor needs to be changed. Was really trying to avoid spending the $80 on a new sensor casue the car was running fine once warmed up. Doesnt sound like my cars doing it as bad as yours though Zale my shits kinda just random. Funny I am running the same clutch too
#11
Posted 30 June 2009 - 01:51 AM
QUOTE (Raceready68 @ Jun 30 2009, 09:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Fucking hell my car was pulling this bullshit randomly the other night but I know the water temp sensor needs to be changed. Was really trying to avoid spending the $80 on a new sensor casue the car was running fine once warmed up. Doesnt sound like my cars doing it as bad as yours though Zale my shits kinda just random. Funny I am running the same clutch too
Hmm.... That is odd that youre running the same clutch. I guess we'll have to ask JimmyHoffa (I think thats the right username) once he gets his in and drives it cause I know he went with an ORC Twin too....
#14
Posted 22 July 2009 - 04:38 PM
Now that my car runs, even though I haven't driven it yet it definitely does occasionally stall. And I do think it's because of reduced rotating mass. I'm not sure if it's the ORC twin plate and Driftmotion aluminum under-drive pulleys but my idle seems to be stable when I start the car (I'm not sure how high it's revving because my tach doesn't work yet) then drops and drops until it's barely turning over. It's died on it's own at idle twice, and afterr holding revs twice. It also seems like it runs on five cylinders occasionally for a few seconds at a time so I probably have more problems to deal with than too much reduction in rotating mass.
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"This is my job man, I do this on Tuesday."
-1987 AE86 Corolla with 20 valve swap SOLD
-1985 MX73 Cressida 1JZ big single swap breaking diffs on the regular
Toysport and 935 Motorsports suck. Don't buy from either.
#16
Posted 23 July 2009 - 02:02 AM
QUOTE (Raceready68 @ Jul 23 2009, 05:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I cranked up my boost and started driving the car like it was ment to be it never stalled again.
Thats it, time to get my shit tuned proper.
#19
Posted 28 July 2009 - 08:16 AM
QUOTE (oreofreak @ Jul 28 2009, 04:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
My car has the exact same problem. I just change my clutch to hks twn plate and thats when it started. I have been told i need to get my car tune to cure this
problem.
problem.
mine used to stall exactly the same way when we first finished it, mainly as i approached lights. the idle/oil pressure would drop...it doesn't do it anymore, but we thought about adjusting/replacing the iac. it's got an act hd clutch but unless you've got a lightened flywheel, i don't see it being the reason.
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