JZX90 Mark II sponsored by Gold in the Net - Ontario
Started by Mats, Aug 08 2008 06:18 PM
335 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:18 PM
well guys picked up the Mark II today from the shipping yard. Anyway sit had to get a boost. ok no problem. now drove for 3.5 hours on hwy heading home. got home fine. put it in garage and go eat dinner. come back after and go to start the car and it turned over twice and then battery is dead. is it normal? im guessing after 3+ hours of hwy driving it should have charged enough to be able to start again right?
well what i did is put a volt meter to the battery and it shows 11.7volts. this should be enough voltage to start it right?
anyone have any imput?
well what i did is put a volt meter to the battery and it shows 11.7volts. this should be enough voltage to start it right?
anyone have any imput?
#3
Posted 09 August 2008 - 05:55 AM
dont forget; stock 1jz ignition doesnt run without electricity. you need a SOLID battery just to get it started. then the alternator keeps it going.
thing is, you dont know about the history of this car.
its definatly in your best interest to do a tuneup.
plugs, air filter, oil change, thoroughly inspect your coils.
while youre under the hood change the serp belt and check out the timing belt.
check brake pad life.
tranny and diff fluid.
thing is, you dont know about the history of this car.
its definatly in your best interest to do a tuneup.
plugs, air filter, oil change, thoroughly inspect your coils.
while youre under the hood change the serp belt and check out the timing belt.
check brake pad life.
tranny and diff fluid.
Virginia may be for Lovers, but Pennsylvania has Intercourse!
#4
Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:17 AM
tks projexxx
so basically your telling me its most likely the battery that doesnt have enough juice to crank it over right?
i plan on doing all the work that you mentioned above.
anybody know how much voltage the battery should have when hte key is turned over? and how much when im turning over the ignition? also what kind of cca should i be looking for if going to get a new battery? as i doub tthe local store will stock a jzx90 battery lol
so basically your telling me its most likely the battery that doesnt have enough juice to crank it over right?
i plan on doing all the work that you mentioned above.
anybody know how much voltage the battery should have when hte key is turned over? and how much when im turning over the ignition? also what kind of cca should i be looking for if going to get a new battery? as i doub tthe local store will stock a jzx90 battery lol
#5
Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:52 AM
for the most part a battery is a battery.
ive got a die-hard lawn mower battery from sears in my 240. its a ka turbo running a SDS standalone with DLI. its enough to crank it over and provide electricity till the alternator can recover and charge the bat. when you go to shop for your battery, know the dimensions of your battery box AND terminals. batteries in the JDM use different size terminals, if you hadnt noticed already. thus, if you go buy a random battery from wherever, its terminals WONT fit the termnials on your car.
my cressida has the same problem as your x9. it will crank over, start, and die. in my case the battery is possibly experiencing a slow drain from the electrical system somewhere. in yours, its probably just the battery.
under load, you need about 12.5 to 13.5 volts to start the car. my battery will show a surface charge of probably 13 if i went to it right now. the seat belts, the lights, the windows, etc all function. when i turn the key nothing happens. battery is shot.
ive got a die-hard lawn mower battery from sears in my 240. its a ka turbo running a SDS standalone with DLI. its enough to crank it over and provide electricity till the alternator can recover and charge the bat. when you go to shop for your battery, know the dimensions of your battery box AND terminals. batteries in the JDM use different size terminals, if you hadnt noticed already. thus, if you go buy a random battery from wherever, its terminals WONT fit the termnials on your car.
my cressida has the same problem as your x9. it will crank over, start, and die. in my case the battery is possibly experiencing a slow drain from the electrical system somewhere. in yours, its probably just the battery.
under load, you need about 12.5 to 13.5 volts to start the car. my battery will show a surface charge of probably 13 if i went to it right now. the seat belts, the lights, the windows, etc all function. when i turn the key nothing happens. battery is shot.
Virginia may be for Lovers, but Pennsylvania has Intercourse!
#6
Posted 09 August 2008 - 08:06 AM
was your battery changed by your exporter in japan?
i had my battery, and coolant and oil done in japan, then at the port they flooded it, so we changed the oil and plugs and gave it a quick boost, and it started up fine, and drove the entire way from vancouver to edmonton on a 2 day trip and same battery in there for about 3 months and no issues.
Can't you take the battery to partsource (orwhatever you have there) and get it tested??
i had my battery, and coolant and oil done in japan, then at the port they flooded it, so we changed the oil and plugs and gave it a quick boost, and it started up fine, and drove the entire way from vancouver to edmonton on a 2 day trip and same battery in there for about 3 months and no issues.
Can't you take the battery to partsource (orwhatever you have there) and get it tested??
1992 -JZX90 - CHASER
#7
Posted 09 August 2008 - 11:01 AM
tks for the imput guys..... it was the same jdm battery that was in there when i bought it in may and no it wasnt changed over there.
brought the batter yto partsource and they hooked me up withh a similar sized battery from a VW. the only difference is its 2 inches shorter in height but other than that its fine. put the new battery in and started up no problem. so seems like the batery was toast. i charged the battery for 2 hours this morning and after the 2 hour charge it was still showing 11.7volts and after 2 cranks it was dead.
anyways everything seems good now!
now for oil and oil filters..... for my sr i always use motul 300v oil and oem filter. is the oem filter the one to go for withh a 1jz as well? what thickness oil you guys running? keep in mind itll be a DD and will not see freezing temps. i might bring it to the track once or twice a year.
i was tihnking running 15w40 but just not sure if it would be too thick for a 1j. anyways i will do some research on that later on today.
brought the batter yto partsource and they hooked me up withh a similar sized battery from a VW. the only difference is its 2 inches shorter in height but other than that its fine. put the new battery in and started up no problem. so seems like the batery was toast. i charged the battery for 2 hours this morning and after the 2 hour charge it was still showing 11.7volts and after 2 cranks it was dead.
anyways everything seems good now!
now for oil and oil filters..... for my sr i always use motul 300v oil and oem filter. is the oem filter the one to go for withh a 1jz as well? what thickness oil you guys running? keep in mind itll be a DD and will not see freezing temps. i might bring it to the track once or twice a year.
i was tihnking running 15w40 but just not sure if it would be too thick for a 1j. anyways i will do some research on that later on today.
#9
Posted 10 August 2008 - 01:09 AM
good to hear it starts up fine. i like to run a little thicker (eneos 0W-50 synthetic) on my 1J, but we have pretty warm weather throughout the year

1989 Toyota Cressida: 1JZ-GTE HKS T300 Single Turbo
1988 Toyota Supra Turbo beater (unfinished)
BellHelmets.com
Special helmet deals for JZXP members in 'Private Eyes'
#10
Posted 10 August 2008 - 04:03 PM
today i decided to jack it up and noticed the passenger side swaybar is not connected and is missing a peice.
first 2 pics shows what its missing and the last shows what it should be on the driver side.
anyone know if there are any other chassis that shares the same part?
first 2 pics shows what its missing and the last shows what it should be on the driver side.
anyone know if there are any other chassis that shares the same part?
#12
Posted 10 August 2008 - 04:38 PM
Bill what year you think? something like 2003?
ill go to local Toyota dealer next week and see what they can do.
ill go to local Toyota dealer next week and see what they can do.
#14
Posted 11 August 2008 - 02:36 AM
well mine is an 01, but i think they are all the same in that area.
if the dealer is asking too much, try the aftermarket sources for front swaybar endlinks for IS300 before you go so you know your options. even if the dealer blows you off with a ridiculous price you'll have a back up option.
if the dealer is asking too much, try the aftermarket sources for front swaybar endlinks for IS300 before you go so you know your options. even if the dealer blows you off with a ridiculous price you'll have a back up option.
#16
Posted 11 August 2008 - 03:17 PM
tks guys..... anyone recommend a certain brand of swaybar end links? any good sites? this JZx stuff is somewhat new to me.
#17
Posted 25 August 2008 - 06:01 PM
well guys turns the IS300 is identical match and just installed it tonight! all is good!
also i did some reading and it seems there is some misconception about oil capacity for 1JZ.
ive read 4.8L withh oil filter but also read somewhere else to use 5.4 L
how much should i put it? i have 5.2L in it right now and dip stick says its hlaf full.
also i did some reading and it seems there is some misconception about oil capacity for 1JZ.
ive read 4.8L withh oil filter but also read somewhere else to use 5.4 L
how much should i put it? i have 5.2L in it right now and dip stick says its hlaf full.
#18
Posted 25 September 2008 - 06:11 PM
Dude, JZA70 Supra or GZ/MZ20 soarer links are identical aswel.
Just giving you the heads up ...
Just giving you the heads up ...
#19
Posted 25 September 2008 - 07:09 PM
tks thats much appreciated!
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