JZX83 mounts allmost ready
Started by RubHamusan, Jul 17 2008 11:08 AM
53 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 17 July 2008 - 11:08 AM
The laser shop has had a back log for a bit.Plus I was awaiting approval from mark.I just got off the phone withh the laser shop and was told they will be ready for pick up in 7 days.
Mounts are $110 shipped.
I had 25 sets cut and 5 sets folded and welded.
I will ship out orders as soon as they arrive at my door next friday or the following monday.
Paypal is lzafar@yahoo.com please add 3 percent to paypal.
If you want to send check or money order let me know and I will pm the info.
Thanks...Scott
I appologize for the delay.Just going a little OCD on my first product and wanted to actually have them tested.
Mounts are $110 shipped.
I had 25 sets cut and 5 sets folded and welded.
I will ship out orders as soon as they arrive at my door next friday or the following monday.
Paypal is lzafar@yahoo.com please add 3 percent to paypal.
If you want to send check or money order let me know and I will pm the info.
Thanks...Scott
I appologize for the delay.Just going a little OCD on my first product and wanted to actually have them tested.

www.RipGarage.com
#3
Posted 17 July 2008 - 11:51 AM
IN
do you need the money up front or can I wait until next week?
do you need the money up front or can I wait until next week?
#5
Posted 17 July 2008 - 03:39 PM
well in that case you have a PM and paypal coming.
#7
Posted 17 July 2008 - 05:43 PM
I'll get comprehensive pics while I put my engine in withh them on, as well as a review once I have it running.
still not sure on what mounts to put under these. stuck between supra poly mounts or solid aluminum mounts, both from BIC in van.
but either way, so far so good from RIP. 8)
bai nao!
still not sure on what mounts to put under these. stuck between supra poly mounts or solid aluminum mounts, both from BIC in van.
but either way, so far so good from RIP. 8)
bai nao!
#8
Posted 17 July 2008 - 08:28 PM
QUOTE (zokustyle)
I'll get comprehensive pics while I put my engine in withh them on, as well as a review once I have it running.
still not sure on what mounts to put under these. stuck between supra poly mounts or solid aluminum mounts, both from BIC in van.
but either way, so far so good from RIP. 8)
bai nao!
still not sure on what mounts to put under these. stuck between supra poly mounts or solid aluminum mounts, both from BIC in van.
but either way, so far so good from RIP. 8)
bai nao!
Cool I appreciate this. I haven't started looking into motor swaps yet and would like to see what you do.
Where is the fun if there is no risk?
#10
Posted 18 July 2008 - 12:30 PM
Thanks for the forum guys.Hopefully if all goes well I will have all the yanack adjustable suspention soon and will be making those aswell.
And zokustyle .My girlfriend packed your harness box and just informed me there was no timing belt.I do appologize and I am priority mailing it out saturday.I will do it myself to make sure it gets done rite.
Hope you don't hold a grudge.
Thanks again.
And zokustyle .My girlfriend packed your harness box and just informed me there was no timing belt.I do appologize and I am priority mailing it out saturday.I will do it myself to make sure it gets done rite.
Hope you don't hold a grudge.
Thanks again.

www.RipGarage.com
#11
Posted 18 July 2008 - 01:36 PM
QUOTE (RubHamusan)
And zokustyle .My girlfriend packed your harness box and just informed me there was no timing belt.I do appologize and I am priority mailing it out saturday.I will do it myself to make sure it gets done rite.
Hope you don't hold a grudge.
Thanks again.
Hope you don't hold a grudge.
Thanks again.
nah man it's all good. you came through withh everything else, so I'm happy. I'm waiting on other stuff too, so it's fine.
I'm getting home tonight from vacation and I'm getting mail from the past week tomorrow so I'll let you know if the harness made it or not.
thanks for the heads up!
#12
Posted 18 July 2008 - 05:05 PM
I am very interested in the Yanack sus parts. I need stuff asap. Are you working withh G on this since I think he is also looking at doing some stuff. No sense in both of you trying to sell the exact same parts. Maybe he can do the front sus and you do the rear??? either way, I need sus hard parts before anything else. so get on it.
QUOTE (brian)
a puppy in a hot car lasts longer than a 7m.
#15
Posted 19 July 2008 - 09:48 AM
G said
so it could be even less then 1500. I am done for all of this stuff if some one buys half and makes the rest and it cost less then 1000 shipped for everything.
I let some of the guys drive my car and they have no idea how I don't spin on every run. Shawn adjusted the rear coil over damping (made them softer) by 3 clicks I think while I stayed in the car and just kept on doing runs and it made a diffrence. Then he got back in, did a run, then got out and said it felt better but now feels like the back end is just moving all over.
QUOTE
Dont buy the tension rods
And the lower arm is easy to make.
i made mine for $90
buy heim joint and threaded aleeve. . weld together. . make spacers .. done
And the lower arm is easy to make.
i made mine for $90
buy heim joint and threaded aleeve. . weld together. . make spacers .. done
so it could be even less then 1500. I am done for all of this stuff if some one buys half and makes the rest and it cost less then 1000 shipped for everything.
I let some of the guys drive my car and they have no idea how I don't spin on every run. Shawn adjusted the rear coil over damping (made them softer) by 3 clicks I think while I stayed in the car and just kept on doing runs and it made a diffrence. Then he got back in, did a run, then got out and said it felt better but now feels like the back end is just moving all over.
QUOTE (brian)
a puppy in a hot car lasts longer than a 7m.
#16
Posted 19 July 2008 - 12:02 PM
I am down to get the mounts and I trust it when friends vouch for them. As of last night one of the guys in my site has talked me into getting an auto 2jz and doing the five speed swap then we can shoehorn it into the cressida. He's running a 2jz in a taco and he is a handy mofo.
So my question is will the decision of 1j or 2j come into play here?
Also I'm interested in adjustable arms. I was considering making them myself along withh some other goodies.
Again super noob and I rather not be a "please hold my hand" guy when I can sit and harvest the info from searches.
I would like a way to adjust my rear camber once the car is dropped. So I will keep an eye on this as well.
I lost (not really) my jz fund this week. I had the money for the swap but some family issues came up. So I'm back to square one. I'm thinking the swap will start next winter/fall when my inspection runs out.
So my question is will the decision of 1j or 2j come into play here?
Also I'm interested in adjustable arms. I was considering making them myself along withh some other goodies.
Again super noob and I rather not be a "please hold my hand" guy when I can sit and harvest the info from searches.
I would like a way to adjust my rear camber once the car is dropped. So I will keep an eye on this as well.
I lost (not really) my jz fund this week. I had the money for the swap but some family issues came up. So I'm back to square one. I'm thinking the swap will start next winter/fall when my inspection runs out.
Where is the fun if there is no risk?
#17
Posted 19 July 2008 - 01:59 PM
honestly the 1jz is plenty of motor for drifty.
if youre like the rest of us, and im sure you are, youll never max out the 1jz, thus negating the need for 500cc's more displacement. the 1jz revs higher with less stress on the motor than the 2jz. its just as stout of a block as a 2jz (701whp in a swapped motor with only big single, cams, and supporting fuel and tuning...original head gasket, studs and rotating assy; the block was never opened, head never removed). and its WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY cheaper. if you still want to go 2j, i suggest NA-T.
but the 1j or 2j will use the same jzx81 mounts for a cressida.
if youre like the rest of us, and im sure you are, youll never max out the 1jz, thus negating the need for 500cc's more displacement. the 1jz revs higher with less stress on the motor than the 2jz. its just as stout of a block as a 2jz (701whp in a swapped motor with only big single, cams, and supporting fuel and tuning...original head gasket, studs and rotating assy; the block was never opened, head never removed). and its WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY cheaper. if you still want to go 2j, i suggest NA-T.
but the 1j or 2j will use the same jzx81 mounts for a cressida.
Virginia may be for Lovers, but Pennsylvania has Intercourse!
#18
Posted 19 July 2008 - 04:41 PM
Stan, like Jason says. 1jz is plenty. I drove Kristians car (bone stock 1jz) last week and it had great bottom end response when compaired to my car and the SR. So if I can do the drifty on the road course withh tall gearing and a SR20 in a cressida withh no issues, 1jz can do it withh ease. Plus, like Jason also stated, the 1jz can rev higher. Which means it is better suited for drifting. Save the money you would spend on getting a 2jz and buy a big single turbo kit for the 1jz and make 350 whp or more right from the start.
QUOTE (brian)
a puppy in a hot car lasts longer than a 7m.
#20
Posted 19 July 2008 - 05:51 PM
I wish that I would have gone 1J instead... for the sound and the revs. But I may change my mind once my 2J is running. I just like motors that keep build their HP all the way too redline like, not that whole gay torque monster earlier shifting. It's note worthy to mention though that the 2JZ will make 320hp stock as shit. withh the necessary things to fit it to the Cress it becomes pretty much BPU power level. And you can always try to kill the stock turbos and shoot for 450hp.
sorry continuing the thread-jack
sorry continuing the thread-jack
ChriSOL----starting shit here is like pissing into an ocean of piss. we live in it 24/7 and one more guy filling up the pool isn't going to matter much.
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