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Dumbest fucking question about aftermarket wiring


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#1 Lofty

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 05:02 PM

2 things. 

 

My cars almost ready to run. 

 

Where did you tap for power / switched for aftermarket gauges? I can't find any pictures anywhere since photobucket is a huge cuck. Admittedly I have no fucking idea how to read wiring diagrams anyways. Colors and pictures work for an aspie like myself. 

 

 

How did you wire your aftermarket fans? 

I'm not too hot on running live wires from the battery like a lot of people. 

Flame away. 


 

post-cressida jzxp is a fitting limbo for us to exist in. hell is a choose-your-own-adventure story and there are no "good"endings.
 

 


#2 ChriSOL

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 06:05 PM

clock wiring.

My friend that lives in US showed me CraigsList while we search for my Cressida. You find lots of odd things on that site. Lots of fat US girls looking for a free ride from black basketball type American man.


#3 BoristheCat

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 07:30 PM

A few things...

 

If you want your gauge backlighting to work with your stock dash lights and dimmer switch, splice the positive for the gauge backlight into a green/black stripe wire that feeds back to the dimmer switch.  Splice the negative for the gauge backlight into the white/black stripe wire that goes to the dimmer switch.  Or, if you aren't using your cigarette lighter anymore, use those wires that feed back to the dimmer switch.

 

For the actual gauge power, check the gauge install instructions for the amperage of fuse you're supposed to use.  Then splice all the positive wires together and send them to a dedicated fuse.  Splice the negatives all together and then ground them to the chassis, NOT into an existing ground.

 

Wire your fans to relays.  Select your wire gauge according to how many amps you need to run.  If you want them wired to a switch that you can flip to turn them on whenever, that's pretty easy.  If you want them to cycle on at certain temperatures, check my build thread for pics/explanation on how to do that.

 

 

I will be wiring both my gauges and fans within the next month or two, but I'm assuming you don't want to wait that long for a build thread update lol


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#4 WhoreMouth_Jr

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 07:35 PM

You can pull gauge power from anywhere thats b+. Clock like chris said, I usually just steal B+ from the ecu or when I'm wiring I use one of the many random b+ sources that usually don't get used. 

 

As for the fans, I suggest running each fan on it's own relay which I do pull the power from the battery. But how you wire that depends on what is triggering your fans haha.

 

Whoops ^^ has some pretty solid deets, started typing this then closed my laptop haha


 

why do we spend our time and money on shitty cars that cant love us back?

 


#5 BoristheCat

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 08:10 PM

Whoremouth, I would be careful about drawing from something that's b+.

 

You can get away with doing that if what you're supplying power to has a really low draw.

 

However, if you splice a few different things into a b+ connection like to your ECU or something and it draws too much power, it could cause problems.

 

I agree with what you said about using a random b+ source that is no longer in use.  That is a safer way to go.

 

 

Imagine if you had something on your b+ line to your ECU, and then you activated it while you were driving, which pulled too much power from your ECU and your shit shuts down.

 

Not a good look lol


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#6 LUMBERZACK

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 12:34 PM

For aftermarket gauge wiring, you can follow my method which is very simple.

 
There are 4 main wires that are required to make the controller and gauges work.

Wires to controller:

Red: 12V

Black: Ground

White: Lights on

Orange: Ignition

 

Luckily enough, you know what has all of these requirements? The clock. Since I had planned to replace the clock with my boost gauge, it was a no brainer to utilize that power which wasn't going to be used anyway.
To hook this up, you can be like MacGyver and just splice the 4 wires, or you can do as I did and find a 4-pin male/female connector. Re-pin the wires from the clock connector to the new male connector and pin the wires for the controller to the female connector. This is the best method that allows you to easily disconnect your gauges during future projects that require you to disassemble the dash.

Alright, so you decided to use the clock. Per TEWD the MX83 clock wires are color coded as follows:

Red: 12V

W-B: Ground

Green: Light Control

L-R: Ignition On

 

This means that you should pin your connector in the following order:

Pin 1: Red -> Red

Pin 2: Black -> W-B

Pin 3: White -> Green

Pin 4: Orange -> L-R

 

Good luck. 

 

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#7 Lofty

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 01:01 PM

Thanks a ton! I made a temporary solution with the radio for start up and all that, but this is super helpful. Thanks everyone. 


 

post-cressida jzxp is a fitting limbo for us to exist in. hell is a choose-your-own-adventure story and there are no "good"endings.
 

 





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