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Steering - I want to go backwards


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#21 redbullx83

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Posted 04 June 2011 - 05:03 PM

You dont have to be rich to get angle, X7 rack, Xm angle kit, Good offset wheels and hammer is the key!

#22 Stephen

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Posted 04 June 2011 - 09:39 PM

^^^ yeah, this setup is over 50deg, which is really good angle.

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#23 toji004

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 01:36 PM

reverse entry bitches !!!
weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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輝きのガレージ


雷- BANG !!!


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#24 white_raven

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 02:20 PM

how are you guys judging what offset to run on your wheels up front?

#25 HIZOKU

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 09:42 PM

The XM Kit is 47 degrees the same as a Stock JZX81

Im getting knew knuckles on the way that will give me minimum of 52 Degrees,

Now to run these correctly im also getting Subaru Brumby Tie rod ends these have the same taper as stock but are 10MM longer

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Now from what i have read on Knuckles im confused i believe i will need spacers like the below

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Unsure if they will fit as there from a nissan but i have been told tie rods are all the same thickness but yeah unsure if true or not

But yeah still trying to work out everything atm
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#26 HIZOKU

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 09:52 PM

Should add the link

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=360823

This is a good thread about knuckles and how they work and many other things

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#27 nihonno

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 10:06 AM

is that fucking Hey Man productions? Robbie Nishida was in that group like 10 years ago. crazy!

#28 Mitch

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 02:23 PM

Cressida's(MX83) only do 40 degrees of angle stock. With our knuckles you make 47 degrees when you hit frame witha 17x8 +32 see pic below.
If you run a lower offset or longer FLCA and do not hit frame at full lock 50+ degrees is achievable.

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I am now going to run a 17x8 +25 and a custom longer FLCA so I can max out our knuckeles, whenI do I will take pics and show the angle achieved.
Also one of the issues is your wheels will hit the factory Tension rods, ours are designed to tuck the arm away from the wheel in order to get massive angle.
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#29 HIZOKU

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 03:24 PM

Stock JZX81 Knuckles (thought they where modded till i took LCA off to get rose jointed)
Stock LCA
17x8.5+25

=47degrees

So this brings me to asking JZX81 MX83 Knuckles different or LCA Different to?

Forgot to add. No guard rubbing at full lock at all
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#30 Mitch

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 07:48 PM

post pics of your setup, and how your measuring the angle. I am curious about your parts.

also I would double check the taper on the "brumby" balljoint. Because if it is the "Brat" but with austrailian badges the taper is not the same as X-chassis.
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#31 Stephen

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 08:07 PM

^^^Brumby = Brat

Stock JZX81 Knuckles (thought they where modded till i took LCA off to get rose jointed)
Stock LCA
17x8.5+25

=47degrees

So this brings me to asking JZX81 MX83 Knuckles different or LCA Different to?

Forgot to add. No guard rubbing at full lock at all


hmmm.... thats a lot of stock angle.....

JZX's are 2" wider than MX83's though.

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#32 aphxero

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 08:40 PM

I think someones measuring wrong...

http://www.toyodiy.c...=on&mJ=on&mG=on

http://www.toyodiy.c...=on&mJ=on&mG=on

http://www.toyodiy.c...=on&mJ=on&mG=on

#33 HIZOKU

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 11:40 PM

Outside of wheel car pointing straight.
put tape down.
then turn wheel to full lock put more tape down. on leading wheel
then get protractor measure inside of tape on both as that is what was closest to the tire/rim on outside.

only time my setup ever got frame issues was with 17x9+5 on them but nothing a hammer did not fix i can not take a picture at the moment as above knuckles have gone off to be Chopped and lowered and LCA made rose jointed.

When i pick up my other JZX81 at the same place as knuckles i can measure up stock on that to. but i also remember reading on here that a Stock X8 has 13degrees more lock then a stock S13 and they have 36 degrees on leading wheels

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A good example of stock lock on a X83 (member MUMBLEZZZ)
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#34 HIZOKU

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 11:50 PM

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Stock lock as per picture above

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Then with JIC Tierod ends


Mitch im not bagging XM at all or saying it is bull shit your measurements just going on my own car and as you know i have got a lot of Other XM Stuff on the way and if it is true a X81 is 2inchs wider that would explain why there is no rubbing on my car. ALSO Can someone look up TIE rods maybe i have after market tie rods in it i know my castor rods/tension rods are stock
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#35 I_need_money

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:13 AM

What I've learned and done-

For max competitive angle you'll need allot of home brew shit.

I made my own knuckles and compared to xcessive (no hate) there's a difference. Ackerman is pointless for what you want. Just cut and re weld short and straight plain and simple don't worry about why or ackerman or low speed turning it doesnt matter.

Next you'll have inner fender clearance issues, s14 lca's are a bad joke upgrade. Use x8 control arms and extend them an inch with square tubing and or welded up adjustable rod ends. Or gangster off set wheels. But with low offsets the way the wheel pivot u need more fender clearance. You'll have drill a new sway mar mount hole too.

Next problem is going over center on the rack, no ackerman in the steering arms helps ALLOT with this but still, to remedy this you run as little castor as u can deal with (bad side effects) to keep the steering arm in line with the rack or man up and mod your crossmember. I cut my bushings out in front of the rack and stacked them so it'd still clamp, hammered it in and grinded down shit. I maybe gained 2-3 degrees and plan on cutting and welding the actual mount pads for the rack at the end of the season.

A super secret Cheater mod for this is to run x7 inner tie rods with jza80 outers, since the tie rods are slightly offset it offsets the break over point the rack at full lock .
These do play with toe dynamics but myself and any drivers I know arent at the skill level to even notice that

#36 Gibbs

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:38 AM

^^ knows his shit I've rode in his car shit gets mad angle
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#37 I_need_money

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:52 AM

I read some where a guy re drilled his engine crossmember to move rack away from the steering arms.

But to do this you must relocate control arm mounts and compensate for the driveline moving the inch whatever. That or alter the motor mounts.

Yea Gibbs event was allot of fun.

#38 HIZOKU

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 07:33 AM

did you lower your Knuckles like the tierod end part? as i have seen this done on a lot of knuckles coming out now just to try and get everything flat on low cars

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Also are you running a bigger spacer on one side then the other? like bolt on spacer passanger side with just washer on other? and what tie rod ends you run? sorry for all the questions as im pretty much after the last bits i need sorting out what to do

I have knuckles being made and stock LCA boxed up with rose joint so will be adjustable + a bit of offset to help 9.5+18s
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#39 I_need_money

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 07:58 AM

Since I have an x7 with mcpherson strut type front end, I'm running RCA's to keep everything lined up. Since our steering arm can be spaced to compensate for lost distance. Usually only double wishbone front end cars need that stuff.

Although there is a little wind up at full lock main issues with the front end design is going over center and the tie rod hitting the lower control arm. Thats where you gotta get creative. And Nah no spacers, I am not mechanicaly limited by the rack, my last hurdle is the tie rods hitting the lca. Then going over center will show its ugly face again. That's why I'm gonna get all crazy with modding the cross member to move the rack forward.

#40 HIZOKU

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:19 AM

Mod your arms

http://shop.engineer...s-for-s13-14-15

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These are his knuckles on Skins cars and modded LCA to suit
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