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#141 battleaxe

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 06:38 PM

interesting to note those stance coils.  i have gen 1 s9/stance coils as well as the newest ones on the supra back in 2014, both had terrible spring bind. i looked up some needle bearings and put those in both cars and it went away. ironically enough, stance JUST started offering the needle bearings right after i did mine.  

even the locals with s13s have this same issue.

in my case i did preload correct, seat the spring and then snug up to keep firm.  iunno what shit tops they were running but they had a real bad run of them on s13s, 5 known cases locally and my own.  im sure many didnt notice or care because they dont know any different.



#142 Gordo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 03:02 AM

Are you speaking of the needle bearing spring seats?


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#143 shlammed

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:27 AM

yep.  the old stance coils didn't have bearings in them for spring rotation.  just the pillowball at the top hat which didn't rotate the spring and would bind up when loaded.  the needle bearing spring seat really helped my s13 with stances ~10-12 years ago.



#144 Gordo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 07:30 AM

Wasn't asking you, slammish.......


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#145 Cyrious

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 10:37 AM

Yes, if you tried overtightening the top nut the coil would turn with the assembly and bind, to loose and the spherical bearing would clunk. So I wanted to get to the bottom of it. S9 remedied the situation asap. My guess is stance didnt anticipate people using them for daily driving when they first came out so they didnt put torrington (needle) bearings in the top hat. Maybe because theyre wear and tear.. No clue. All i know is my front end is 100% remedied. Im sure if someone wasnt in a warranty situation they could easily size a needle bearing for their top hat to make their own assembly as battleaxe did.

VSe3hzX.gif


#146 battleaxe

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:11 PM

i did the needle bearings that sit on the bottom of the spring, not the top hat. top hat is still whatever bullshit these use. im not too keen on the coilovers and all their dumb problems. 

i have a photo in my build thread on the supra when i took the coils apart and put the bearings in.  theyre ID and OD of the spring and i put them on the bottom and then snugged up the spring so it was seated

 

ls823U0.jpg

 

O65HLl7.jpg

 

as far as i remember, my tanabes in the s13 dont have a needle bearing top hat either, its just spherical and has not once caused me any issue in the 10+yrs ive had them, even with all my neglect



#147 Cyrious

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 07:57 PM

Nice work. Can any holset guys chime in? A friend wants to trade me my hy35 for his hx35. I really like the hy35 for the 1jz because it has a smaller hot side.. But since I'm going 2j bottom end.. Anyone running one on a 3.0 bottom end? If so when does it spool up by? I'm planning on making 500whp only and want fast spool. Should I just keep the hy? Basically what I'm asking is which turbo is better for 1jz and 2jz. My guess is the hy35 would spool up super fast (2-3000rpm) and max out at 500hp on a 3.0 bottom end.

HX35 8-blade:
A/R- 0.89
Compressor inducer- 56mm
Compressor exducer- 83mm
Compressor trim- 46
Turbine inducer- 69.5mm
Turbine exducer- 60mm
Turbine trim- 75

HX35 7-blade: (His)
A/R- 0.89
Compressor inducer- 56mm
Compressor exducer- 76mm
Compressor trim- 54
Turbine inducer- 69.5mm
Turbine exducer- 60mm
Turbine trim- 75

HY35:  (mine)
A/R- 0.65
Compressor inducer- 56mm
Compressor exducer- 76mm
Compressor trim- 54
Turbine inducer- 65mm
Turbine exducer- 58mm
Turbine trim- 80

HE351:
A/R- 0.65
Compressor inducer- 60mm
Compressor exducer- 84.582mm
Compressor trim- 54
Turbine inducer- 65mm
Turbine exducer- 58mm
Turbine trim- 80


VSe3hzX.gif


#148 shlammed

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 05:32 AM

your basically comparing journal bearing versions of a 3071R and a 3076R based on the "mine/his" labeled specs.  I don't think you will go wrong with the larger one on a 3.0



#149 Gordo

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 07:34 AM

Now shimmie is a turbocharger expert !


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#150 Demesio

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 09:12 AM

hx35 is going to hit you like a freight train at around 3kish and choke out around 5.5K... from my experience with 2jzge... couldn't gauge power numbers cuz the tuner was a piece of shit.



#151 Cyrious

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 09:38 PM

Got my block assembled for the most part..

vFPw1Ef.jpg

P6mc2lV.jpg

I'm currently porting and polishing the head. Just removing flash casting and bringing the combustion chambers to a mirror finish to prevent carbon and hot spots from happening. Going to cc balance each of them.
VVMzUDT.jpg

I got a powder coating rig from eastwood. Now that I have it, I just want to powered coat everything. Also as you can see.. I have an obsession with gold..
rWR8poE.jpg

aXCu3O9.jpg
 

I'm on a hacked ramen diet, because I need more car parts.
L1KCPV1.jpg


Shlammed sold me his z32 brakes. I think I'm going to powder coat them when I get some time..  I was to lazy to go take a picture, so I figured I'd recycle his picture.
23602072_10155286760821731_197667719_n.j

Trying to decide if this intake will be worth it.

Ak9DZnT.png

 

There are two aftermarket intake designs that I know of, the shit ebay one and this one.. I'de really like to know the gains on using them. I'm currently leaning to running my oem intake for now, so I can afford shlammed's ross balancer. I'de also like other peoples opinions on the aero...  I wanted it for so long... now I have it, but I'm 30 years old now, and after one year, it's already lost its appeal and I'm missing the sleeper look of the jzx81 oem bumpers. I can also lower my car and not have to worry about scraping the kit up. I also sold my HY35 and opted for an HE351cw, my reasoning was simple.. the he351 is supposed to boost just as quick but flows much better, I didnt want to go the hx35/40 route because I wanted quick spool, cheap and robust. I can easily find another holset to replace this one if I have to. Mine is currently torn apart for rebuild and powder coating. I also got some new 550cc bosch ev14 top feed injectors flow matched by performance injection, which im pretty stoked about. Having a heated garage for once really helps with progress..


VSe3hzX.gif


#152 battleaxe

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 10:44 PM

nothing wrong with the factory intake manifold. why not put your car together and use it then upgrade the upgrades. youre doing what most do and keep prolonging the build with more parts that never get used and have a glorified dumpster.

 

have you thought of other colours/shades to break up all that....barf inducing gold. like....gold is fine, but you have painted everything gold..theres no break in it...just powder coat everything gold and commit to it.

Goldmember.jpg



#153 Cyrious

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 12:32 AM

Only the things pictured above are going to be gold, engine bay, hoses/fittings and tanks will all be black, and some polished aluminum pieces as well. The idea is for the engine to pop out at you. Yeah i think i'll hold off on the intake for now. I was driving the car up until winter, and I plan to have it back on the road in the spring. But yes some serious gold member vibes hah.


VSe3hzX.gif


#154 Okidriftjr

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 07:27 AM

Like B.A said don't waste money on an intake. The stock ones work fine up to 600ish up.
Damn that's a fuck ton of gold.

I keep comming back to toyotas. Guess it's where I belong!

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#155 Gordo

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 08:44 AM

Polishing combustion chambers & pistons won't keep carbon from happening.

Old wives tale.

It helps with flow, and a little heat rejection, but that's about it.

Race engines that are taken apart all the time, and cleaned acn benefit, but not really a street engine.

Haven't seen and engine with polished parts that didn't have carbon starting to form after an hour or two of run time.

 

But if it makes you feel good...

And that type of work is a whole lot easier if you buy a die grinder, had drills are too bulky, heavy, and turn too slow.


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口That ass hole,  
口The Magnificant  
口That old fart,  
口The infamous  
口That crazy  
口That 7M guy,   
 
Best JZXP statement:
Jacob - "We're all fucked. We'll be comparing everything to a Japanese taxi for the rest of our lives."

 


#156 battleaxe

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 12:02 PM

Motor would pop with just gold covers and a few other bits. You've done the block, head, covers, pack covers, intake and those other misc covered bits. It's too much imo. I'd have done the block and head in bright silver and then the pack cover black with gold flake. That way it all pops because it's clean and fresh and the gold still is your main colour. That way it's not over powering. Think of a person wearing had to toe all over print for example. That's just my opinion for visual stuff. We all have our own visions. Keep doing you man.

I'd just change the idea from doing the head silver Vs gold and then you don't have to redo anything. And the stock intake.

#157 shlammed

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 08:58 AM

block/accessories and valve covers need to not match to get the popping effect you want.



#158 battleaxe

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 09:04 AM

this is all i see

enginerepaint1.JPG



#159 Gordo

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 11:19 AM

SBF ?


Prefixes for 'Gordo'
 口 Holy Shit  
口That ass hole,  
口The Magnificant  
口That old fart,  
口The infamous  
口That crazy  
口That 7M guy,   
 
Best JZXP statement:
Jacob - "We're all fucked. We'll be comparing everything to a Japanese taxi for the rest of our lives."

 





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