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Midnight Battle Station


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#41 BudgetVIP

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:01 PM

Yeah check the usuals first man. Make sure you are getting heat in the car. I was losing a little coolant too and I found that my lower radiator hose was rubbing against the 2 tension rod bucket bolts that thread from the bottom of the bucket. I apparently didn't trim enough away when I swapped my 1jz to my new car and it was just leaking enough to scare me a little bit. Check your hoses on your heater core and radiator. Hopefully it is an easy fix and just a few weird coincidences that are contributing to this problem. Good luck.
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#42 Will Garrick

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:02 PM

word^ and if you only run your car for short periods of time without letting it warm up it will leave froth on your oil cap and appear as a bhg(mine did the same thing)
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#43 Cyrious

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:17 PM

At first I had an IACV coolant hose leaking from under the throttle body down over the dipstick hole. I assumed that was the problem and I fixed it and changed my fluids. Kept driving it too and from work for maybe 10 minutes at a time. Checked it again, more white stuff on my cap, and coolant low several pints. The oil was really thin and wattery and had a greenish tinge too it. Also my fresh oil gets black really fast. I thought you had to drive for a few hundred kilometers before it turned black..

Aside from that it has been running great, and I've been keeping good winter coolant in it, and I let it warm up before driving it and after. The only time things were wierd, is the map sensor became disconected while I was driving It and I knew the engine was running really screwed on my way home. I doubt that would cause a bhg. I guess ill know more when I compression and leakdown test it. I do know I had perfect compression before I started driving it.

Is it possible that since I've been driving it for short periods of time with a thermostat stuck shut, that the pressure built up and shot through the head gasket to an oil gallery? How close are cooling passages to oil?

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#44 Stephen

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 05:24 PM

do leakdown/compression tests.

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#45 Mitch

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:15 PM

^what steve said, I've ran 30psi a couple of times with just 540cc and a SAFC II and no BHG. These things were built out of titanium I swear.
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#46 Cyrious

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 06:46 PM

So I spent all week putting my head back together.
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- 3 angle valve grinds
- machined new seats
- new guides and stem seals (felpro)
- ARP head studs
- cometic head gasket
- new exhaust studs, nuts
- new toyota oil filter, and toyota red coolant

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I put everything together. Went to fire it up and the starter didn't work. So I pulled the starter, tested it, find out it's crapped itself. So I replace it with a new starter turn the key and the engine runs like shit. Tons of smoke and fuel and its backfiring and popping. After chatting with other jzx'ers i'm thinking, me being a blonde, I never checked my shim clearances. What was I thinking. My timing is bang on. I might have the injector clips wrong, but regardless, I gotta check those shims.

I should've just levelled the head and threw her back on valves rattling away, out of spec. And replaced head if it gave me problems. She ran fine before minus the coolant leak.

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#47 Cyrious

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 07:09 PM

Just checked my shim clearances and all of them except one will not allow my smallest feeler guage to go under it. How the hell do I know what sort of shim to order if I can't get any measurments. If I would have known all of this before I was advised by my machinist to have my valves machined, I never would have done this shit.



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#48 The Chubby Chaser

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 01:11 PM

Keep it internally stock + ? = PROFIT!

#49 Cyrious

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 01:53 PM

Yeah, i'm starting to wish I did. The exhaust valves were way out of spec, you could move them in their guides and the valves wouldn't hold air pressure. At least this way i'll have a solid head. So i'm going to go to the junkyard and start pulling shims out of heads to get some smaller sizes. I gotta grab an electric fan setup while i'm at it anyways.

* Next time just add lapping compound and seat your own valves*

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#50 cocobutterz

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 10:53 PM

Go shimless? I believe 3sge buckets or something like that make it so you don't need to run shims. I know the poopra guys do something like that all the time when running big cams.

Thats cool you feel like you can make a 7m proper. Just do it somewhere else. Around here we call that shit gay.


#51 Cyrious

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 11:25 PM

I've actually been looking into it. Once I get the proper measurements I may just order up some 3sge shimless buckets. Apparently this will remove 12 or so ounces and translate to a smoother running head at higher rpms. If I ever decide to cam it , this would be ideal.

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#52 Cyrious

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 05:56 PM

It was a gongshow to re shim the head but now it's done.
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2 Years later , several thousand dollars, countless fights with my girlfriend and hours slaving away, throwing tools , feeling like the project was a big fuck hole of fail....


..... It was finally finished.
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It runs amazing. I Put a new IACV on, and it idles bang on 1000rpm. I wired my tach exactly how aphexero's thread said too, it works perfect. I cleaned up the wiring in the car. Right now i'm running the exhaust straight out the down pipe. My neighbors love me.

I went and pulled twin electric fans from an altima and wired them up. They fit perfectly. One of the top bolt holes lines up perfectly and the rad drain cog, helps hold it into place. Other than that, all you have to do is drill a couple of small holes on the side of the shroud to line up with the holes on the side of the rad, and pull a few zip ties. Cheap $50.00 solution and it makes my rad 'stay frosty.'

The only concern I have is that the clutch is slipping when I boost around 9lbs at 5k rpms. I'm worried that I didn't break the clutch in properly at first, I couldn't hold back and did a few hard pulls with it at first on a brand new 6 puck and flywheel. I know, that was really stupid.

I'm going to try adjusting it, and if that doesn't work, do the e-brake clutch de-glazing proceedure. If it doesn't work fuck it, i'll just drive it like that until the end of the year when I pull the engine at the end of the season.

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#53 tougekid1

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 08:47 PM

Jwhat clutch do you have in there? I missed it if its in this thread. I never "break in" a clutch.. usally I do the ol hot rodder and just drop it on the first go. Never had a problem. Then again I'm only running 300tq in my other car. Maybe that's why....just wondering if its a jz issue so I can be prepared.

#54 Cyrious

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 04:34 PM

So then I fixed my clutch issue and got everything running tip top. I was having a great time burning ricers until...

I stalled my car when I was doing a burnout. It wouldnt start again. I checked my fuses and the efi fuse keeps blowing. I removed the kick panels to look for short circuits. I couldnt find anything wrong the wiring, or the turbo timer I wired in a few days ago. I noticed that the ecu was warm. I opened it up and found a burnt component. It looks like a big fat grey resistor marked "r361", in my jzx90 a/t ecu.

I thought x90 ecu's were supposed to be reliable. Has anyone seen this before? Maybe there is a short circuit somewhere?

I also noticed that I was getting a check engine light when I drove the car hard. I didn't get a check engine light when I kept my rev's below 3k.

Also just found a cracked capacitor on "D309".

So i'm beggining to think my ecu known as 'mark's ecu,' was cooked from the get go. :P


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#55 Cyrious

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 09:12 PM

Before I commited to bodywork;
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So long since my last post i've worked out the running issues. Such as adjusting the clutch, and fixing all of those wires I rubbed through in the fender well, that i re routed. I then built a sweet exhaust for it that I didn't take pictures of, (4" Dp to a 3" straight out the back). Sounds great and doesn't rub the ground much. Then I ripped around in it for a few weeks until I hit a pot hole and severely bent in two rims that I just had straightened at $200 bucks a piece.  So I said screw it to driving around in this wasteland in a car that looks like shit. So then I did this;

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After

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 Almost have the drivers side fender done. Then I have to do the other side and bondo etc. I ended up smashing out my rear glass because i thought the rear pillar vents came off with the trim. Expensive mistake. My glass guy pulled me a new one from the wreckers and came to install it. I also have a box of serial nine coilovers, end links, and new wheel bearings and new brakes to put on, but im waiting until the car is painted to install that stuff. I also have a Kai Flow kit that I'm in the process of obtaining in a trade off for my old BN sports aero.

Here is the colour I'm pretty sure i'm going to go with;
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2013 Toyota Venza Metallic Bronze Mica


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#56 ChriSOL

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:49 AM

ehhhh. i hate new car paint. there was a guy with a darker more root beer brown x8, worked out on his car though.



My friend that lives in US showed me CraigsList while we search for my Cressida. You find lots of odd things on that site. Lots of fat US girls looking for a free ride from black basketball type American man.


#57 Cyrious

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:25 PM

The venza bronze mica deffinatly stands out a lot more in person than it does on photo. I decided to go with it after seeing venza's ball around town with that paint. Its a real eye catcher. Will need to do like three coats of clear to really pull out the pearl in it.

 

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Thats the next mother fucker I have to battle.

But as it stands, the drivers side of the car is almost prepped for primer.
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Then I brewed my best batch of red ale yet. 20% dextrose, 60% malt , 20% brown sugar with a pinch of hops.
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Then I found this old picture. Reminded me of...



... How jzxproject.com ruined my life.
215809_10150583056310481_8208812_n_zpsca


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#58 Okidriftjr

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 09:49 AM

Keep up the hard work. Being such long time period project, it is easy to lose faith and drive. Doing so much to a car and running into issues is hard on anyone mentally.
Sure I bought my cress already swapped, but I have done builds on my own in the past so I feel your pain.

I keep comming back to toyotas. Guess it's where I belong!

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#59 Cyrious

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 09:05 PM

Almost done all of the body work. Just about to finnish sand before paint.
I still cant decide which hood louvers I should put on. I'm also stuck trying to figure out something classy to do for front signals, now that I have the kei flow kit on my car :).

I wanted something other than ordinary hood louvers, so I was thinking about these boat louvers. Not sure if they would look better welded level with the hood, then sanded and painted flush with the hood. Or, keep it chrome, cut a hole in the hood and just screw it down on the hood after its painted. I was thinking I would just have one on the side above my turbo.

A: louver3_zpsb3013318.jpg
B:louver_zps86ef33dc.jpgB2:louver2_zps70f1b05c.jpg

Anyone have suggestions on aftermarket bolt on DOT signals? Was considering just bright oval ones.


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#60 Gordo

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 09:23 PM

Why not, a Cressida is a boat anyway.

Then cover the hood in Teak, hang life preservers on the B pillars, and a bronze prop underneith the bumper.

Name it the SS Minnow.

 

Just joking.

I actually like those louvers.

 

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